Milan men’s week: soft tailoring wins
The narrow suit is over. In its place: long jackets, wide trousers and cloth you want to touch.
The men's shows in Milan were the quietest in years, and the most convincing. The narrow suit is gone. In its place is tailoring that is soft, wide and made to be lived in. After four days and thirty-one shows, here is what we saw and what it means for the way men will dress.
The end of the tight suit
For fifteen years, the fashionable suit was short and close. The jacket ended above the seat, and the trousers gripped the leg. It looked sharp in photographs and felt like a uniform.
In Milan, that suit was nowhere. Jackets were longer, with a natural shoulder and room in the chest. Trousers had one or two pleats and fell straight to the shoe. The models looked comfortable, and they walked like it.
